Showing posts with label tweeking recipes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tweeking recipes. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Fresh Pasta and a Product Review!

I adore fresh pasta. The dough is pretty simple to make but where it gets complicated is creating all those fun shapes you see in the boxes that line supermarket shelves.

With the tools I have, my only options are linguini in two sizes or ravioli, unless I want to hand cut or roll the pasta, which I don't. Last night I had a hankering for something sagey and butternut squashie so I made a sage infused pasta dough, caramelized small diced squash, and made the pasta in a carbonara sort of way. It came out well with the flavors of butternut squash, sage, pancetta, and parmesan intermingling on my tongue, but I would have rathered the pasta in a bite sized pasta shape like rigatoni or penne.


My sister-in-law is just that lucky. She has a new toy I covet and hope to have in my own home sometime very soon. She was generous enough to share a review of this gadget in my very first guest-post here on Pots & Pains.






Product Review:  KitchenAid Pasta Press Attachment for the Stand Mixer
by Christine

We love making fresh pasta at home, so a few years back we bought the KitchenAid pasta plates that attach to the meat grinder attachment for the stand mixer.  The results were always lackluster -- gummy pasta and tubes of rigatoni and penne that collapsed during cooking.  The plates quickly moved to the kitchen gadget graveyard in the back of our pantry.   We'd given up on making fresh penne and rigatoni at home until we discovered the KitchenAid Pasta Press from Williams-Sonoma.  The press attaches to all KitchenAid stand mixers and extrudes pasta into six different shapes:  penne, rigatoni, spaghetti, bucatini, fusilli, and small and large macaroni. 

We were a bit dubious before using the press, but our first batch squashed any doubts we had.  We've used the press about a dozen times so far and have not been disappointed! It is a well-designed piece of equipment and very straightforward to use.  It comes with a thorough instruction manual that includes pasta dough recipes specifically developed for the press.  We've only tried the basic recipe (see a slightly adapted version of the recipe below) to make penne, rigatoni, bucatini, and spaghetti.   The pasta maintains a perfect al dente texture, which is not always easy to achieve with fresh pasta.

The key to a successful outcome with the press is definitely a well-made pasta dough.  As you can see in this video, we weighed the ingredients for our dough.   Weighing the ingredients, even the beaten eggs, ensures a consistent final product.  When made correctly, the dough has a consistency similar to Play-Doh.  Extruding the pasta is simple.  You break the dough into small pieces and drop them into the press.  The press is equipped with a built-in slicer that allows you to cut the pasta to your desired length.  Usually, the first few inches of extruded pasta don’t come out perfectly.  All you do is simply roll the dough back into a ball and drop it in the machine again.  It is that simple!

The KitchenAid Pasta Press has been a great addition to our kitchen and we recommend it to anyone who enjoys making fresh pasta at home.  

** Side note from Shannon: If you've made it to here without clicking on the link to the video, go back and click. It is a great short video on the steps involved in making pasta. Such a good video, I'll repost the link HERE! **

Basic Pasta adapted from the KitchenAid Pasta Press manual
Serves 4

The first time we made the basic dough recipe from the manual, we measured the ingredients according to the recipe and then weighed the measured amounts.  We figured that weighing the ingredients would help us achieve consistent results in the future.  The only change we made to the original recipe is the addition of one more tablespoon of water. 

Ingredients
490g all-purpose flour, sifted

208g lightly beaten eggs

18g salt

2 tablespoons water

Directions
Place flour and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.  Turn the machine on to Speed 2 and gradually add eggs and water.  Mix for 30 seconds.

Replace the paddle with the dough hook and knead the dough on Speed 2 for 2 minutes.

Remove the mixture from the bowl and place on a clean surface.  Knead the dough by hand until it is smooth and holds together in a ball.


Rigatoni with Mushroom Ragout
Serves 4


Ingredients
1 Basic Pasta recipe (see above), extruded into rigatoni

Olive oil

2 shallots, thinly sliced

24 ounces cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted in warm water, drained, and roughly chopped

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 teaspoon sea salt (we like Maldon Sea Salt)

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Pecorino Romano  or Parmagiano Reggiano to shave over plated pasta

White truffle oil to drizzle over plated pasta (optional)

Directions
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a generous pinch of salt.

While the water is coming to a boil, heat a large skillet over medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil.  When the oil is hot, add the shallots and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Add an additional tablespoon of oil to the pan and then add the mushrooms and thyme, being careful not to crowd the mushrooms.  Sauté the mushrooms until they begin to brown slightly and shrink down, about 15 minutes.  If necessary, sauté the mushrooms in batches or in two pans, using additional oil as needed.

Once all of the mushrooms have started to brown,  return them to the pan and add salt and pepper.  Continue cooking for 5 minutes.

Add the white wine to the pan and bring to a boil while scraping all of the brown bits with a wooden spoon.

Once the mushrooms have absorbed most of the wine, remove the thyme sprigs from the pan.  Reduce the heat to low and add the heavy cream and one tablespoon of parsley.  Stir to combine.    Add salt and pepper to taste.  Keep ragout warm on the lowest heat setting.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 4 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, transfer the cooked pasta to the pan with mushrooms and toss until combined.

Divide the pasta evenly among plates.  Garnish each plate with remaining parsley and shave cheese over the pasta.  If using truffle oil, drizzle a small amount over each plate.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Creamy Shrimp & Asparagus Risotto


See what deliciousness pancetta can bring? Just look at those crispy nuggets of gastronomic joy! As I mentioned in yesterday's post, cooking up diced pancetta is how I always start my risotto. 
I think nearly everyone loves a well executed risotto. Unfortunately, it can go terribly wrong if it is under or overcooked. I find that ordering it in restaurants is a little risky because it can so often fall into one of those two categories. The crunch and grit of an underdone risotto or the glutenous mush of an overcooked risotto is so disappointing. 


Ideally, you want a creamy plate of food where the grains of rice are distinguishable from one another and the flavors of the other ingredients marry well. To attain the creamy texture, many recipes and chefs call for cream itself. I never use cream in my risotto, instead, manipulating the grain to release just enough starch to create a smooth and comforting texture.


Most of my friends make risotto, and make it well, but I have had a few people ask me to give them a demonstration on the process. So here goes...


Per the food porn picture above, I always start with pancetta because it brings great flavor and natural salt into the dish. After the pancetta is cooked until crispy, I remove it from the pan and drain off about 50% of the rendered fat. I use the other 50% to sauté my onions.  Layer the flavors!



The basic outline of cooking risotto goes like this:
1. Sauté onions in fat
2. When translucent, add risotto grains to pan and cook/toast until you hear them crackle a bit.
3. Add wine and cook until fully absorbed.
4. Start adding your stock. (which should be warming in a sauce pot nearby.) 
Add enough stock to cover the rice and simmer until it is mostly absorbed. Then add more stock.
5. Follow this pattern until the rice is almost al dente. It has more of a crunch than you'd want to eat but seems to be close (maybe 5 minutes away) to being done.
6. Turn off heat, add a handful of parmesan, a knob of butter, a few grinds of the pepper mill and the cooked pancetta. Stir to combine and put the lid on the pot for 5 minutes.
Seriously, 5 minutes off the heat with the lid on. Go set the table or send a few emails and then come back to it.

Steps 2 and 3 are critical points in the process for creating a creamy texture in your final dish. By toasting the rice before liquid is added and then adding a wine before the stock, you are breaking down the outer shell of the grain to release the starch.


Risotto is like a blank canvas upon which you can add so many other flavors and ingredients. Depending on your dish, you will want to add those items at different times during the cooking process. For fast cooking things like shrimp or delicate vegetables, I add those during the last five minutes so they don't over cook. If you have something with herbs, you'll want to add those as you are toasting the rice so they can impart flavor as the rice cooks. If you've got something that really needs to cook, you may want to sauté that with the onions or add just before the stock so it cooks along with the risotto. Just keep in mind that large pieces of ingredients that take a while to cook may not be ideal for risotto. The rice really should only take about 18 minutes of cooking plus the 5 minutes of resting at the end. 


Pancetta getting crispy and the fat rendering off. As you can see on the right side of this photo, a layer of flavor has formed on the bottom of the pan that I scrape up with my wooden spoon when I add the wine. When the pancetta is done to your liking, remove from pan and drain on a paper towel.


1 medium Onion, diced, sautéing in the rendered fat of the pancetta. The color comes from the pork bits left on the bottom of the pot not because I have cooked them until they are browned. 







Above is about how much wine I add to 1 1/4 cups of risotto. Well, I guess not all of it. To the left is what I get to drink while cooking!






After you have added stock twice and cooked it until it has been absorbed, taste your risotto. You need to take a bite to figure out where you are in the cooking process!

When you think you are ready to turn off the heat and cover the risotto, add things that will over cook fast like asparagus, shrimp, or peas. Don't forget to season with some pepper. If you've used pancetta you likely won't need additional salt.


Sorry for the poor lighting and messy composition of the photo above. It is here just to show you that I've added the pancetta, parmesan, butter, asparagus, and if you can see it the shrimp are nestled snugly into the risotto to cook. Lid when on fast and I left the room with my glass of wine to watch 5-minutes of whatever news program was on.

Five minutes later we had this. A creamy, buttery, shrimp and asparagus risotto.




Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Lemon Curd & A Double Birthday

As much as I hate being cold, I really do love Winter. Living in the Boston area we get a lot of Winter every year but it isn' always white. Often we are forced to suffer through the low temps with no snow to play in and seriously by June that can get kinda old. This year however, we have been rewarded with lots of gentle snow storms and thankfully, no snow days yet. (I also like summer and want my kids to get out as early as possible so we can play on the beach.) I love sitting at home, like I am now, quietly watching the white flakes fall from the sky with a fire going and some classical music on in the background. This serene atmosphere just makes me want to do one thing, cook up something cozy, warm and comforting. So while I love Winter, it isn't such a great time of year for my waistline.

Luckily I had already planned a day of cooking for yesterday because when I woke up we had a surprise inch of snow on the ground and the storm was just getting going. I clearly hadn't watched a weather report in a long time. The only troublesome part about yesterday's storm was that it made the roads a mess here in our small town and I was hosting 16 women for dinner to celebrate the birthday of our dear friends who are identical twins. When I say identical, I mean, seriously they should have done the Doublemint Gum commercials all those years ago!

Our group of women is a mixture of people from here, not from here, old friends and new friends. The twins happen to be two of my oldest and dearest friends from high school. It was a pot luck dinner and I made the cake or should I say cakes. While trying to figure out what to do for the cake it dawned on me that perhaps they often have to share a cake and blow out the candles together. So I decided to make two rolled cakes so they each could have an obnoxious amount of candles to blow out all on their own. What a good friend I am!

Clearly one should be chocolate cake and the other white cake to satisfy the differing tastes of such a big group and to accomadate my need for BOTH. The chocolate would be rolled with fresh whipped cream and raspberry filling. For the white cake I decided to fill it with a lemon curd and brush the cake with a Malibu Rum simple syrup. One of the twins loves drinks made with Malibu Rum so I figured I'd give that a try. As you can tell, I am always trying to inject something new into recipes.

Both turned out really well and as you can see from the photos below, I got a lot of skinny candles in each one! Horrifying. I know.

TECHNIQUE
If you have never made a lemon curd or a rolled cake before you should put it on your list of things to try. They are both fairly easy to accomplish with care and attention.

The Curd is simply whisking eggs and egg yolks with sugar and lemon juice. Butter and gelatin are added at the end to help with the structure of the curd. I used a recipe on page 477 of Martha Stewart's Cooking School book which uses both eggs and egg yolks. The recipe below is from Gourmet courtesy of epicurious.com.

A rolled cake is simply a génoise cake batter baked in a thin layer for about 6 minutes and then rolled in a clean tea towel while warm. After the cake has cooled all rolled up, unroll it and fill it. Re-roll the cake and chill. It is really that simple. I used the génoise recipe on page 464 of Martha Stewart's Cooking School book.

Recipe below photographs.


 lemons. some zested. juiced. curd. cake. 
the confectioners' sugar balances the tart lemon so nicely.



whisking lemon curd. rolling up white génoise cake.



 two cakes. twins.





*Monday's Upcoming Events Post will be rescheduled soon. Got busy preparing for the birthday party yesterday!*

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Recipe Updates

Each week I will be trying new recipes and if I don't have time to immediately update you all on how they went, I will do my best to do a weekly recipe recap on the weekend. So here we go...

On Monday I posted about Tweaking Sullivan Street Bakery Recipes but never gave you guys the results. Got too busy getting ready for The Martha Stewart Show!!
  • The folding of the edges several times during the rise worked well in bringing in more air bubbles.
  • After 15 or so hours of rising I had a nice dome under the tea towel covering the dough.
  • While I had the dough rising all day in a warm spot in our house, the chill overnight did some damage to the rise and air bubble factor. When I came down Tuesday morning it had clearly lost lots of its umph and all of its dome. Grr.
  • I preheated the oven to 500 degrees with the cast iron skillet on the bottom rack. Just after I slid the bread on the upper rack, I poured water into the hot hot skillet creating steam and quickly closed the oven door. I then turned the oven temp down to 450. I set the preheat temp to 500 because I knew the door would be open for a bit while I was pouring the water into the skillet and didn't want to lose too much heat in that process.
  • THE RESULTS: The crust was lighter and crispier than previous attempts and the interior definitely had more holes. However, it was still too dense in my opinion so I am going to keep trying.


The Roman Gnocchi Experiment



I am happy to report that the recipe I posted in 24 hours in Manhattan: a food & fun recap is a good one! I have tried it twice since yesterday and it turns out nice semolina gnocchi, which IMO are hardly gnocchi because they were too easy! Here are my thoughts:
  • The first batch I tried in a baking dish and they didn't brown all that well and took much longer in the oven than the recipe called for.
  • For the second batch (pictured), I decided to up the temp to 450 and I preheated my cast iron skillet so I could get a good bottom crust on these guys. Once the oven was preheated I took the skillet out, quickly doused it with olive oil and then slide the round "gnocchi" into the pan. 
  • I returned the pan to the oven on the middle rack for about 15 minutes. I then put the pan on the bottom rack for about 5 minutes to get the bottoms good and browned, and then cranked the broiler to brown the tops.
  • THE RESULTS: A crispy top and bottom with a wonderfully creamy center. YUM!
  • I served it for lunch to the kids with some red sauce and they gobbled it up.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Tweaking Sullivan Street Bakery Recipes

It's early. I hear my husband stirring getting ready for work and I look at my iPhone/alarm clock/everything else and see that it is 5:45 am. However unappealing it is to climb out of my warm bed, there really is no better time to get fresh bread started.

I shuffle downstairs to a very cold kitchen and decide to warm up a cup of yesterday's coffee b/c I just can't wait for a new pot to brew. Today I have decided to play with one of Jim Lahey's "no-knead" bread recipes from his Sullivan Street Bakery cookbook. Last summer my family had the incredible fortune to live in Paris for 3 months while my husband worked on a European-based project for his company. We quickly became addicted to vrai french baguettes which was a hard habit to break once we landed back home in October. After trolling my entire area sampling all the "baguettes" nearby, I realized no one is doing it right around here. Some are too sourdough in flavor, some have too much crust, all of them have dense interiors with not enough holes, and most others are just plain undercooked or bland. While we have some artisan bakers up here, IMO they are not doing a good enough job of pumping out authentic french baguette. Maybe that's not their goal. The best I can find close to home are the baguettes at Whole Foods but the best I have found since returning states-side are those at Isabelle et Vincent in Fairfield, CT. They are a true french boulangerie/patisserie and bake their flavorful baguette all day long so nearly anytime you walk in you can ask for a warm stick of bread right from the oven. Trips to Isabelle et Vincent have now become a regular occurance when we visit our dear friends in Fairfield.


A few weeks ago, my sister-in-law emailed me an article, found here, discussing tweeking Jim Lahey's recipe to get a bread that has a thinner crust and more holes. Although I am pleased with the flavor of the Sullivan Street Bakery recipes, I'd love to see if I could make them a bit more eh, how do we say, uh, French!

So while the sky warms its horizon with shades of pink and begins to light up my snow covered back yard, I get to work on combining the 400g of bread flour, 8g of table salt, 1g yeast, and 300g of water. Today though I add in an extra splash of water to make the dough a bit more moist.


I am going to let this thing rise for a full 24 hours this time and during that time I am going to fold the edges in on the bread as the article suggests. Tomorrow when I get around to baking it off, I will try to get some steam action going in my very hot oven. Since I have two ovens, I thought it would be a good experiment to do one with steam i.e. a pan of water at the bottom of the oven, and one dry. Unfortunately, I only have one baguette form pan. Maybe I'll bake them off separately since they don't take too long.

Until tomorrow....